Read Full Article HereDermatologists and skin care enthusiasts agree: Finding the best vitamin C serum for your skin type can be incredibly helpful—and challenging. That’s because vitamin C (a.k.a. L-ascorbic acid) is one of those does-it-all ingredients, with benefits ranging from brightening to anti-aging. It’s particularly great at managing hyperpigmentation issues (like acne scars and dark spots) and evening out tone, thanks to its ability to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment in skin. It’s also everywhere—you can find it in all kinds of serums, face moisturizers, and even cleansers.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant, which means it can also help neutralize free radicals. These unstable atoms form as a result of exposure to environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution. Over time, free radicals can cause oxidative stress that may harm your skin and cause premature signs of aging. Using sunscreen daily, along with a powerful antioxidant (like vitamin C), is the best way to protect your skin from this type of damage.
The thing is, there are seemingly endless vitamin C products out there, and it can be hard to know which one is right for you. That’s why we spoke with dermatologists to get their picks for the best vitamin C serums out there and learn how you can find the ideal product for your skin type and goals (more on that below).
What should you look for in a vitamin C serum?
There are tons of vitamin C products available—here’s what to consider if you’re looking to add one to your skin care routine.
Concentration
First, think about the concentration of vitamin C you might need. If your pigmentation issues are mild or you have dry or sensitive skin, definitely start at the lower end (around 5%) because vitamin C products can be irritating at higher concentrations, Sara Hogan, MD, a dermatologist at UCLA Medical Center, Santa Monica, previously told SELF. If your issues are more moderate to severe or you’ve been using vitamin C products for a while without any sensitivity problems, you can go all the way up to 20%.
However, the effects you’ll get from vitamin C products plateau after 20%, so there’s no reason to pay more for anything above that concentration. Unfortunately, not all companies clearly label how much vitamin C their products contain, so it’s a good idea to read the specifications on a manufacturer’s website or consult your dermatologist before buying.
Form
Next, consider the form of vitamin C in the product you’re looking at. Some products contain L-ascorbic acid (the OG), while others contain chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C. These ingredients can be highly unstable, since they’re often sensitive to both oxygen and light, so you’ll want to be on the lookout for products that use more stable and effective forms.
Some forms are also better suited to certain skin types. For instance, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is water-soluble, so you’ll usually find it in lighter, water-based products that are great for oily skin. But ascorbyl palmitate, another form, is lipid-soluble—you’ll often see it in oil-based serums and moisturizing formulas that are better for mature or dry skin.
Design
Finally, pay attention to how the product is designed and stored. Because vitamin C is such a temperamental ingredient that can oxidize and lose effectiveness quickly, opt for products that come in dark or opaque packaging that blocks light. Another plus? Products that have an airless pump, rather than a dropper—this design prevents the contents from being exposed to oxygen.
How should you incorporate vitamin C into your skin care routine?
Dr. Hogan previously told SELF that it depends on what kind of product you’re considering adding to your routine. Serums are best applied directly after cleansing your skin but before moisturizing it (ideally in the morning, since vitamin C can help protect against free radicals throughout the day).
If you use retinol or benzoyl peroxide regularly, dermatologists don’t recommend using a vitamin C serum at the same time, as the combination can cause it to lose potency. Since it’s more effective to use vitamin C in the morning, professionals suggest using benzoyl peroxide and retinol at night or on different days of the week for the best results.
Wondering how a vitamin C serum will play with a different active ingredient in your skin care routine? Do some research to confirm whether it makes sense to combine them first before you dive in. And remember that how you use the product is just as important as the product itself. Using a vitamin C serum consistently and storing it well (in a cool, dark place) to preserve its potency can result in noticeable skin improvements—but not overnight. You’ll probably need to use even the best products for a few weeks or months before you start to see results.